Trees

How to plant a tree correctly?

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For growing at home is suitable dwarf pomegranate, which is derived from a wild-growing species. Pomegranate trees and shrubs prefer rocky terrain, so most often grow on the slopes. The tree is unpretentious, loves warmth and adapts well to room conditions. In the warm season, it can be kept under the open sky, but for the winter it is necessary to bring it into the room.

general information

A dwarf plant, depending on the species, can be a shrub or tree. Pomegranate grows up to 1 m, it blooms beautifully and forms large red or pink fruits with burgundy hues. On one tree bisexual and asexual flowers are formed. The former have a pistil and a stamen, the inflorescence resembles a stamen. After fertilization, ovaries are formed. In the flowers of the second type, resembling bells, reproductive organs are absent.

Pomegranate blooms in spring. The petals have a bright red color, the diameter of the inflorescences is about 3 cm. The largest fruits grow to 18 cm in diameter. Inside there are grains, which can be more than 1000 pieces. Each grain is surrounded by a juicy shell with a sweet-sour taste.

Growing pomegranate at home is easy, but we must understand that the main function of the indoor shrub is decorative. Fruits, if they appear, can be considered a pleasant bonus, but it is hardly worth planting grenades just for their sake.

Suitable varieties

Pomegranate is less demanding to care than citrus and other crops that are also grown in indoor conditions. Miniature varieties begin to bloom when their height reaches 40 cm or more. Domestic fans of home gardening have a popular dwarf look - Punica nana. At the age of 3-4 years one plant sets up to 10 fruits. They grow up to 5−6 cm in diameter and have a sour-sweet taste. The best varieties of Punica nana for breeding at home:

  • Baby and Carthage. The height of an adult tree varies from 50 cm to 1 m. The fruits are tied with 2 years of life. There are many flowers, but the ovaries are much smaller. The first grenades can be frustrated when the tree is 3 years old.
  • Alba captivity. The decorative grade which is not forming fruits. Its raisin is large terry cream-colored flowers and rigid, fleshy oblong-shaped leaves. Pomegranate develops fairly quickly, so if you need to slow down the process, the tree is planted in a small container.

Most often, the plant blooms profusely, but the ovaries on one specimen forms no more than 3-4. If there are more of them, the grenade will not have enough vitality to provide all of them with nutrients.

Landing rules

Seeds of dwarf pomegranate suitable for growing at home, sold in garden stores. They are recommended to be planted in the first decade of April. For planting take a wide container with a capacity of 1−1.2 l, poured on the bottom of the drainage layer, on it - a layer of sand in which the seeds are placed. In one capacity plant several pieces. Deepened by 5 mm.

The soil is watered, a clear glass or plastic film is put on top. Approximately in 2 weeks shoots will appear. Then you need to wait until the seedlings form 5-6 healthy leaves, and plant it in separate pots. It is better to take a large container right away so that later you don’t have to transplant the tree, causing it inconvenience. Soil mixture is made in the following proportions:

  • vermicompost - 1 l,
  • sand - 1 l,
  • citrus primer - 2 liters.

Planting a tree, the soil is well watered. Another method of reproduction involves the use of cuttings. The lower sections 3−4 cm buried in wet sand. Top put a glass jar, turned upside down. Then regularly check the moisture content of the substrate. If necessary, watered.

After 25-30 days, the cuttings will take root, which will be noticeable by the appearance of buds. When this happens, you can replant the branches in separate pots. The land is prepared in the same way as in seed reproduction. Growing a pomegranate from a cutting makes it possible to preserve varietal characteristics, and in the case of seeds it may turn out that not the sort that was planted will grow.

Care instructions

Pomegranate is a light-loving plant, so in the warm season it can be kept on a loggia, balcony or in the yard. At this time, the pot should not be allowed to dry out. When the bush blooms or bears fruit, it is regularly fed. The frequency of fertilizer - every 1,5−2 weeks. The universal Etisso liquid mixture is best. It happens for green and flowering houseplants and trees, and you need to choose the one that corresponds to the current state of the pomegranate.

It is necessary to water a fruit tree carefully. The soil should not dry out, but overwetting should not be allowed. If the soil is too wet, the fruits will begin to crack. In addition to irrigation, pomegranate needs regular (1 time in 2 weeks) spraying.

From the beginning of autumn to the end of winter, there is almost no need to care for a pomegranate tree, since it is at rest. Some plants shed their leaves in September or October, but this is not the case with everyone. For the period from December to March, the pomegranate pot is moved to a cool place, and before that it is fed with a ready-made complex fertilizer or mullein infusion (100 g of organic matter per 1 liter of water).

During the first 5 years, the pomegranate tree grows rather quickly, so it is transplanted annually into a more spacious container. It is desirable that the pot was slightly narrow and high. An adult copy no longer needs transshipment, it is enough to remove the top layer of the earth every year and pour a new one.

Pest and disease control

Dwarf pomegranate is often damaged by insect pests. It is also not very resistant to diseases, so you need to monitor its condition all the time. Mildew is a dangerous infectious disease. Its carriers are harmful fungi. Pomegranate is infected from other plants, for example, from potted flowers, which are brought from the store. The pathogen is actively developing if the room is high humidity, poor ventilation, or the temperature often changes.

A sign of powdery mildew is a light patina on which you can see brown balls. Effectively treatment with systemic fungicides "Skor", "Topaz", "Hom". If the disease has just begun to develop, you can try to eliminate it with folk remedies.. Sometimes this solution helps:

  • 7−12 g of soap
  • 5 g of soda ash,
  • 1 liter of water.

Occasionally pomegranate bushes are affected by cancer. The disease is indicated by cracks in the cortex with jagged swellings along the edges. The disease develops as a result of the fact that the grenade was damaged by frost or the bark was damaged. To get rid of cancer, you need to trim the damaged branches to healthy tissue, treat the wounds with a disinfectant, and then smear it with garden pitch.

When the earth is wetted excessively, the leaf plates and petioles become covered with spots of different colors. If you do not take measures in time, the roots will begin to rot, so it is better to immediately transfer the garnet into another pot, replacing the soil. Before planting, root processes are examined at the new site, damaged ones are cut, and wounds are treated with crushed activated carbon.

Planting dates for fruit trees

It is known that it is possible to plant trees both in spring and in autumn. The optimum time in the spring is before bud break. In most parts of Russia - this is April. In the fall, planting should be completed 15-20 days before the onset of cold weather. Usually, trees are planted in October, when the soil is wet, it is no longer hot and not cold.

Knowing the time of planting, everyone can decide when it is more convenient for him to plant a tree. Naturally, in the spring time is less: a lot of work and having time to plant a tree before bud break is not always possible, autumn is a calmer time, and the choice of seedlings in nurseries is the greatest. If you buy a tree in the fall, deciding to plant in the spring, you will have to dig it somewhere and protect it from rodents.

Nursery - the best place to buy

The very first rule of planting any tree begins with the choice of the place of its acquisition. It is best to buy trees in nurseries. It is desirable that the nursery in which you are going to purchase a sapling successfully existed in your city for at least a couple of years. It is in the nursery that you can purchase a full-fledged seedling of any tree, corresponding to the variety, having no diseases and not infected by pests.

However, even when purchasing, be sure to inspect the root system, the above-ground part of the plant, and if you do not find rot, burrs of bark, dried roots, then the seedling can be purchased. By the way, it is best to transport the sapling to your site by first pre-dipping its root system in a clay mash, sprinkling roots with sawdust and wrapping them in a plastic bag.

Each seedling - a place

In order for the tree to grow successfully on your site, you need to pick him exactly his place. The overwhelming majority of trees will grow well in the lighted area, without shade, without depressions and depressions (places where meltwater or rainwater accumulates), on soils with the groundwater level located not closer than two meters to their surface.

Well, if there is protection in the form of a house wall, fence or other structure from the north side, not a single tree will refuse from this. Pick up a plot where the crop you are planting before or at least five or six years ago did not grow. Do not plant in place, say, an apple tree again an apple tree and so on. Why?

It's simple: besides the fact that a certain type of culture sucks out the characteristic set of elements from the soil in the required quantity, it also “enriches” the soil with pests and diseases that hibernate or sleep, which immediately become active once again the same culture

The type of soil is also important, because the optimal place is not only where it is light, even and moisture does not stagnate. The vast majority of trees will grow well only on nutrient and loose soil, such as black soil, loam, and the like. You should not plant trees on sandy or very dense clay soil without preliminary preparation of the substrate: loosening (the addition of river sand or, for example, buckwheat husk) is in the case of clay soil or, on the contrary, seals (addition of clay to the soil in a loose state, usually a bucket per square meter) - in the case of sandy soil.

The pH level, that is, the balance of acid and alkali, is also undoubtedly important. The best option is usually a pH from 6.0 to 7.0, if it is higher, then this soil is alkaline, lower - acidic, few trees like such soil. You can check the pH level with an ordinary litmus test, by spreading a piece of soil in water and dipping it there. The color in which the piece of paper will be colored will mean the pH level. A set of litmus papers and scales can be purchased at any garden center.

Distance between seedlings

In this case we are talking about the landing scheme. Trees, whatever they are, certainly do not like thickening. While the sapling is young with a thin stem and a couple of runs, it seems that even a meter of free space is enough, but after five years, when a powerful above-ground mass is formed, the crown of your tree will begin to interfere with the neighboring trees or shrubs, it may begin to bend towards the light, it may begin to bend or it will become ugly one-sided, and then nothing can be done about the tree - it is too late.

To avoid trouble, do not be greedy, plant large trees so that the distance from other trees is at least three meters, this should be enough for the full development of the crown.

Soil fertilizer before planting

Before planting, when you have decided on the place and scheme, it is necessary to properly prepare the ground. Outwardly, it seems that all the soil is the same, it is black or gray, closer to brown, and so on. In fact, the composition of the soil can be said to be unique. At one site, only potassium can be enough to meet the needs of the tree, nitrogen at the other, and at the third all the three main elements for the full development of the tree will not be enough.

So, in order to level the risk of starvation of a tree after planting, the soil must be fertilized before planting. Fertilizers are usually applied for soil digging, distributing well rotted manure or humus (4-5 kg ​​per 1 m 2), wood ash (250-300 g per 1 m 2) and a nitroammophos (tablespoon per 1 m 2) over the surface. Usually these fertilizers will be enough for the tree to start fully developing in a new place.

When preparing the soil, be sure to remove all weeds, especially the grass rhizomes, they are the first competitors to the seedling, and at the initial stage of the tree’s life in a new area they should not be. Pyrei, by the way, can restore its growth even if only one centimeter of its root remains in the soil.

Features create a landing fossa

When the soil is ready, you can begin to create planting pits. This procedure is normal, not complicated, but there are some rules here. For example, you need to dig holes, making the edges even, the size of 25-30% more than the volume of the root system of the tree, and dig them at least a couple of weeks before planting the seedling.

The preliminary digging of the fossa will allow the soil to settle even before the seedling is placed in it, then there will be no unpleasant surprise in the form of a failed seedling a couple of days after planting. At the bottom of the pit, be sure to arrange the drainage of expanded clay, broken brick or pebbles.

Drainage is loved by most trees, it will not allow water to stagnate near the root system and thereby eliminate its rotting. Above the drainage it is necessary to pour a nutrient layer, as gardeners call it - a nourishing pillow. It should consist of a mixture of humus and nutritious soil (usually the top layer of soil is the most nutritious) in equal proportions with the addition of 50 g of wood ash and 15-20 g of nitroammophobia to the composition. Before placing the root system of the seedling in the hole, it must be watered well.

Placement of a sapling in a landing hole. © orangepippintrees

How to place the seedling in the fossa?

Go directly to the landing. So, the fossa is ready, filled with fertilizers, watered and 12-14 days have passed, the soil has settled and you can plant a tree to a permanent place.

It is advisable to start planting with the installation of a support peg, it should be installed only on the north side. The support peg is necessary to maintain the tree in a vertical state for the first time, until the seedling is strong. After its installation, you need to pick up our tree and examine its trunk well. On the trunk you can see a darker side and a lighter one.

The dark side is usually south, light - north. If you want the tree to settle down quickly in a new place, you need to place it that way: so that the darker side faces the south and the light side faces the north. Thus, we will plant a tree as it grew before in the nursery, and the transplant stress will be at least slightly reduced.

Further, when planting, first lower the seedling into the hole and gently straighten its roots so that they look to the sides, do not bend, break or turn upwards from the fossa.

In general, it is more convenient to plant any tree together, one person should hold it firmly by the trunk, sprinkle another on the roots with soil. When filling the roots with soil, try a little tugging of the seedling so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil, and not with air. We advise when planting to compact the soil in layers, that is, sprinkle lightly - compact a little, then again - pour in the soil, again compact, and so on, until the hole is filled.

When planting, it is extremely important to ensure that the root neck (the place where the roots go into the trunk) must be slightly above the soil surface, at least by a centimeter or slightly more. It seems that this is a trifle, in fact, if the root neck is buried, the tree will immediately slow down in growth, and entry into the fruiting time will be greatly delayed (for stone fruit, for example, even the root of the neck may decay and the tree will die corny).

You shouldn’t let everything take its course, hoping to “maybe”, even if you later “dig up” the root neck, you will still get a dimple and moisture around it, falling on the soil surface, no matter if it rains or watered, it will stagnate in this recess, and the root neck will also rot.

After the root system is completely covered with soil, it is necessary to compact the soil, straighten the tree so that it stands upright, tie it to the peg “figure eight” to prevent the hauling, then pour the soil with a pair of water buckets and be sure to grind the surface of the soil with a layer of humus a couple of centimeters .

Humus is a very good mulch, when planted in the fall it will save moisture from evaporation and prevent the seedling root system from freezing, and when planting a seedling in the spring a layer of mulch in the form of humus will be additional nutrition, will not allow the formation of a soil crust and inhibit the growth of weed vegetation.

Installation of the support peg when planting seedlings

First care for a sapling

If you think that planting is over with the sinking of a seedling in the soil, then you are mistaken. There are several actions that take place after landing, but they should still be included in the list of indispensable landing activities. В осеннюю пору – это защита молодых деревьев от грызунов. Обычно после посадки стволик до высоты примерно 60 см оборачивается пластиковой сеткой, а вокруг саженца разбрасывается отравленная приманка.

When planting in the spring it is necessary to protect the young stem of the tree from sunburn, whitening it.

After all this, it is safe to say that the landing is over. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in planting a tree on its plot, and if everything is done correctly, the tree will soon bring the first crop, which from year to year will only increase.

Trees and shrubs - How to plant an apricot and properly care for it in a cold climate?

How to plant apricot and properly care for him in a cold climate? - Trees and shrubs

In the southern regions of Russia, in almost every yard you can see a green tree covered with yellow-orange fruits, the bones of which are oval-shaped. This is an apricot. Planting and caring for them do not represent work in a warm climate. In the middle lane and in the Urals, more effort is needed for this, but the result is worth it.

Which varieties are better to choose

In regions with a cold climate, varieties specially bred for such weather conditions should be planted. Some frost-resistant apricot trees reproduce by self-pollination, therefore, it is advisable to root several types of seedlings with different ripening period in the summer cottage.

  • "Kichiginsky". The hybrid tolerates severe frosts and grows rapidly. Fruits in 5 year. The ripe fruit is juicy, fragrant, medium in size, the core of the seed is sweet,
  • "Snezhinsky." Feels great in arid and cold climate. The first fruits appear at 4 years after planting. Have a bright yellow color with a red blush on the sides. Sweet pulp quickly moving away from the stone,
  • "Piquant". It grows well in central Russia. Variety resistant to frost. Small yellow fruits ripen in early August, are distinguished by juiciness, delicate aroma and spicy bitterness.

In addition to these varieties, Siberian “Amur”, “Khabarovsky”, “Siberian Baikalov”, “Minusinsk amber” and “Seraphim” are successfully grown in Siberia. All of them are adapted to the harsh climate and recommended by breeders for planting in the northern regions of the country. The main feature of these trees is that their fruits have time to ripen in the short Siberian summer and taste no different from juicy southern apricots.

How to choose seedlings

To plant apricot seedlings was successful, you need to choose the right place. The southern tree loves the sun, so prepare a well-lit area on an elevation carefully closed from the draft and the wind. In such conditions, you can quickly get the fruits in the Urals.

When purchasing seedlings, be sure of their quality. It is better to acquire trees that are one year old, they are well rooted. Carefully inspect the branches. They should not be spines, as this is a sign of only wild varieties. Be sure to check the small spike, which is always formed at the site of vaccination. Pay attention to the root system, if it is frost-bitten or there are signs of rotting, do not buy the plant. The chance that it will take root, is zero.

Planting tree

The optimal time - planting apricot in the spring. Over the summer, the fragile sapling will get stronger, take root, gain strength. This will help him to calmly survive the cold winter in central Russia.

Apricot is unpretentious to the choice of soil, but it is better to plant it in the fertile, loose earth. Dig it before winter and feed it with mineral and organic fertilizers. An adult tree has a fairly wide crown. He needs a lot of space for normal development and fruiting, so dig holes in the fall at a distance of 5 m from each other. During the winter and spring, the soil in them will settle, and they will be ready for rooting of seedlings. The recess must be such that the root system of the tree is freely placed in it, and there is still little space left. Usually dug about 80 cm inside and 70 cm wide.

  1. To protect the roots from stagnant moisture, put a thick layer of drainage at the bottom of the pit. This may be broken bricks, gravel or small pebbles.
  2. Then add 2 buckets of mullein, a half-liter jar of superphosphate, 250 grams of wood ash and 350 grams of potassium sulphate. Add some ground from the garden and mix the mixture thoroughly. She has to fill the pit by 1/3.
  3. Place the seedling inside and cover it with soil so that the root neck is 4 cm above the ground level.
  4. Ram the ground under a tree and make a wide cushion of earth around it. It is necessary that the water does not spread when watering.

At the end, moisten the sapling with 2 buckets of water and tie it to a wooden peg.

How to care

Growing apricots in cold climates has some peculiarities. Take care of him all year round. When snow falls, the root neck needs to be cleared of it, so that the ground near the trunk is frozen. It does not hurt the tree.

During the period of melting snow comes a dangerous time for apricot. A large amount of water fills the root neck. Night frosts freeze the water again, and the neck begins to sweep. Such a phenomenon is a frequent cause of the death of apricots in the Sverdlovsk and Chelyabinsk regions and in Siberia. To avoid this, in the spring be sure to scoop the snow away from the trunk, dig small grooves to drain water and carefully mulch the soil.

When it gets warmer and the tree blossoms, it needs regular moderate watering. Moisten it once every two weeks, using 5-6 buckets of water, but make sure that it does not stagnate in the root system. A few days after watering gently loosen the ground under a tree and systematically get rid of weeds.

If you carry out the correct pruning, the tree bears fruit better and becomes more frost-resistant. When buds bloom, the branches that grow inside the crown and thicken it, clean. This stimulates the growth of young twigs, which in a year or two will fasten fruit. Experienced gardeners advised to form a tree on a sparsely-tiered type, when the shoots grow at a distance of 35 cm from each other. It is recommended to remove old branches that are not tied to fruit.

For apricot thaw is dangerous in the winter. From her tree, young buds instantly awaken. When the air temperature drops again, they freeze and die. Apricot starts to grow poorly and does not bear fruit. To avoid this, experts advise all young shoots to pinch their tips in June. This procedure prevents them from waking up during thaws in winter.

Tip Do not forget to do sanitary pruning of wood. Get rid of sick and drying shoots in time.

How to apply fertilizer

Growing apricot in central Russia requires timely feeding. If during planting a sufficient amount of mineral substances have been added, start fertilizing the soil for the next year.

  1. In the spring of 2-year-old tree is useful to feed the infusion of fresh chicken manure. For its preparation, a litter bucket is diluted with water in a 15 liter barrel. Let it brew for several days, and add 10 liters of liquid under each barrel. Instead of organic matter, you can use purchased nitrogenous fertilizer according to the instructions.
  2. Before flowering in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. l potassium sulfate, 2 tbsp. l ammonium nitrate and poured with nutrient liquid apricot. This feeding is repeated after flowering.
  3. In autumn, the area where trees grow is dug up and fertilized with compost or rotted manure.

The older the plant becomes, the more fertilizer it needs. At 4 years of life, the number of ingredients should be increased by 2 times, by 8 years, when it is already actively bearing fruits, by 3 times, and so on.

How to grow apricot yourself

In central Russia and in the Urals regions, many gardeners prefer to grow apricot from the stone. Such a sapling adapts better to the climate, is less likely to be ill and more fruitful.

In the summer, the stones are harvested from large ripe fruits, thoroughly washed, dried and stored in a canvas bag at room temperature all winter. In order for the seeds to take root, you need to know how to plant an apricot in the spring.

  1. In early March for a week, be sure to soak the seeds in cold water, which is replaced daily with a new one.
  2. Then mix in equal quantities moss, sawdust and sand, moisten them and put them together with apricot seeds in a plastic bag. Planting material should take 1 part of the prepared substrate.
  3. Make small holes in the polyethylene for air circulation and store the bag at a temperature of about 4-10 C.
  4. After a month or two, check the seeds. They should crack and germinate. In some varieties, this happens quickly; in others, germination must be waited for several months.

In early May, the bones are planted in open ground, pre-digging and fertilizing the ground. On the site, dig holes in the 20 cm from each other at a depth of about 10 cm, put there bones, covered with earth and watered. At the end of the bed mulch peat. The sprout quickly splashes out of the ground, buds appear on it, and over the summer it stretches up to 100 cm. It can be transplanted next year.

In the northern latitudes, some summer residents do not transplant a tree grown from a stone. At the same time, its varietal qualities change, but the plant tolerates strong frosts better.

Apricot is often propagated by grafting. To do this, pick a young stock and get an apricot stalk that bears fruit well. This is done in the spring, when the movement of the juice begins and the kidneys awaken. The procedure is quite complicated, so experienced gardeners resort to it.

Every year the number of apricot trees planted in the server regions of Russia increases. Gardeners enthusiasts are not afraid of the vagaries of nature, and they manage to get a big harvest. If there is no apricot at your cottage, be sure to purchase a frost-resistant sapling or grow a tree from a stone. With proper care, it will quickly thank you with sweet fruits.

Money Tree: Some General Information

The money tree, which in fact bears the much less significant name “bolster”, is an evergreen plant that belongs to the genus of succulents. In total there are about three hundred varieties of this flower, of which about 2/3 grow in the southern part of the African continent.

Money Tree is from Africa

Quite a large number of the mentioned species are used as indoor pets around the world. The fat woman has a distinctive feature - round, thick leaves, for which, in fact, it got its name.

Note: This succulent can be dangerous for a person through eating or unprotected skin contact, as it can accumulate a substantial amount of arsenic in its flesh during its entire life. Despite the fact that indoor plants are grown in conditions that are far from the natural environment, growing on the soil depleted in arsenic, this still needs to be taken into account.

This plant is able to bloom, producing small inflorescences of the following shades:

  • red,
  • beige,
  • snow white
  • yellowish
  • bluish, etc.

It is believed that the jade is able to attract wealth to the house in which it grows, while improving the emotional environment in the house.

It's nice that this flower is very unpretentious, and does not require special attention. However, for those who truly believe in his magical abilities, perhaps the conditions for his cultivation will be somewhat greater.

That's what size a money tree can actually grow

In this material we will describe to you the technique of planting a money tree, and also turn it into a real magic ritual, telling you some tricks.

How to plant and grow a money tree at home: instructions

So, in order for this plant to grow in your home, you first need to get it:

It is best, of course, to transplant the cutting itself, since this way the plant will quickly gain strength for rooting in the new place of residence.

Please note: it is believed that the cutting or leaf of the plant cannot be asked for a gift. It is believed that the magical power of the plant reaches a peak of power only when you:

  • secretly cut the stalk,
  • paid for part of the plant money.

Thus, you activate the money energy. If you don’t believe in all these magical tricks, just ask your friends who have successfully grown a jersey to give you a small piece of tree trunk.

Step number 1 - cut the shank from the bastard

Harvest cuttings of money tree

So, first cut the stalk, which we will then grow. To do this, look at the shrub of an adult tree, and look for a process (branch) of medium thickness on it. Too thick branch can not be used, because by cutting it, you can cause serious damage to the parent plant.

On some branches the fatty soup even sometimes forms aerial roots. It is best to harvest the cuttings with them, then the plant will take root in the pot even faster than you could count.

Step number 2 - the stalk is placed in the root germination fluid and disinfected sections

Next, you need to place the cuttings in the root germination liquid, and wait until the root system develops enough

The cut off part of the plant, both the mother and the future of the young bush, must be disinfected using:

After processing, it will be necessary to place the cut stem in water mixed with a root germinating agent, for example, “root”.

So the plant will need to leave until such time as you do not find a good, strong roots in the cutting. At this point, you can start preparing directly for landing in the ground.

Step number 3 - we select the container and the ground

The pottery pot needs to be picked up to begin with a small one, as its modest root system should master the space given to it for growth gradually.

Thus, the parameters of the ideal packaging will be as follows:

  • height about 15 centimeters,
  • diameter up to 12 centimeters.

Ideal for planting bastard primer for cacti and succulents

As we promised, we’ll add some magic to the procedure: in order for the money tree to “replenish” your wallet, it is better to select the following colors in the pot:

As for the land suitable for growing this flower, it is better to take for the desired purpose an earthen mixture for cacti and succulents, since it is the most adequate option for this plant that meets all the requirements.

In addition, you need to buy a special drainage component (pebbles, expanded clay), which we later put inside the pot, adding a pinch of magic to it.

Step number 4 - landing

So, let's start creating for our plant a blissful atmosphere inside the pot. So, for this it is necessary to fill the drainage into it, which we prepared in advance, adding to it in order for the magic to work, coins, in the amount of 6-8 pieces. They say that it is best to take exactly the yellow coins that match the color of gold.

Fill the pot with earth and replant our process inside.

It does not matter the value of coins and their belonging to a particular currency. However, it is important to properly fit them, so that the numbers are facing towards the bottom of the pot.

On top of the coins pour drainage, and then the ground. We plant the plant in the covered land, deepening its root part by about 4-6 centimeters.

Please note: it is said that the magic of the plant will become even stronger if you plant a shank that we chopped off earlier only under the growing moon. If you really believe in magic and higher powers, you can read a rhyme along the way to attract money.

Step number 5 - the final stage

The final stage of planting involves the compaction of the earth around the seedling, as well as its watering. If desired, together with water, you can introduce fertilizer into the ground, which plants will only benefit.

After planting, take a red wool thread, and tie it with a loose ring to the trunk of the tree, so that you can untie it in time and tie a larger thread.

Do not forget to compact the ground around the sprout and water it.

Congratulations, your money tree has been planted, and it has already begun to work for your well-being!

Money Tree Maintenance Problems

What could be the problem in the content of the money tree

As we have already said, the money tree plant is very unpretentious, however, sometimes problems may arise with it. Most often they are observed in moments when:

  • for some reason you stop caring for a flower,
  • caring for a money tree becomes inadequate
  • you overdo it with irrigation, fertilizer, transplantation and other aspects of care.

So, for example, if your burgundy suddenly became bald, dropping most of the leaves, most likely you:

  • over-dried the soil of the plant
  • poured cold water over the tree.

Thus, the water for irrigation should be at room temperature, or a temperature that will be several degrees even higher. Simultaneously with insufficient watering, not only the foliage ablation will occur, but also its quick drying. Thick, fleshy leaves will turn into thin, lifeless dry crusts.

Plants need to be watered moderately.

Excess moisture can also cause the plant to grow sick. Especially often overflows occur in the winter, during the rest period of the plant. At this moment his leaves become pale, and even white.

Испорченную листву в обязательном порядке нужно быстро удалять с дерева, и проанализировать, что же произошло. Перелив и недолив вполне могут стать причиной того, что ваш цветок скоропостижно погибнет.

Нужно также обращать внимание на развитие у цветков заболеваний.

Так, при заражении корневой гнилью, толстянка начнет чернеть непосредственно от основания. In this case, to save the flower, you have to perform a real operation:

  • remove the plant from the root of the pot,
  • cut the damaged segments of the root system
  • transplant a flower into a new, clean land and also updated pot.

If the stem of your tree is deformed, twisting in different directions, then, most likely, it has little light and too much water.

To heighten the effect, “magic” elements of the planting of a money tree should be observed.

Harmful insects on fatty meat parasitize rarely, but it happens that you have to use special chemicals to destroy them. The presence of pests can be noticed by a rash atypical for the plant and bloom on the leaves.

Let's sum up

The beliefs of many countries say that a money tree can bring wealth to a person, which will be added to the flower owner's wallet, as if by magic. It is also said that if you carefully take care of a fat boy, she will become attached to a florist, and will reflect his state of health, as well as his moral outlook. If you notice that the tree is withering, there’s probably a problem that can be found in the life of the person who raised it.

Regardless of beliefs and their truthfulness or untruthfulness, it can be said with confidence that the more carefully you care for a flower, the more satisfaction you will get by looking at its bulky foliage and beautiful inflorescences. And, as you know, the general state of the soul is extremely beneficial for all aspects of your life activity.

Read the same: How to grow a lemon from the stone at home. Features of the plant. Problems that you may encounter during planting, ways to overcome them. Care for sprouts. Secrets of the productive cultivation of southern culture.

Seedlings preparation

In order for the tree to grow well and bear fruit in the future, it is necessary to buy seedlings only in specialized stores. During the selection you should pay attention to the following factors:

  1. The presence of subsurface-type water in areas - for trees with a strong root system, the depth of the underground-type water should not exceed three meters. Dwarf-type seedlings can be planted in an area where the water depth does not exceed 1.5 meters.
  2. The quality of the soil - when choosing the necessary seedling, it is necessary to take into account the nature of the soil, this will allow not only to get a stronger and more developed tree, but also to increase its fruiting.
  3. The level of light - the more the sun can get a plant, the better it will develop.
  4. The size of the area where the landing will take place - the distance between the trunks should be selected depending on the characteristics of the type of tree to be planted, for example, densely planted seedlings will grow upwards and not in breadth and at the same time weave and darken each other.

Selection of planting dates - autumn planting

Autumn period. If, nevertheless, there is a need to disembark in the fall, it is necessary to observe the terms that directly depend on such factors:

  • Climatic features of the region - it is imperative to have a time of at least three weeks in order for the sapling to get a full growth on the root system. The degree of development of the tree and its growth will directly depend on it.
  • The peculiarities of the species and breed - in stone fruit (plum, peach, cherry), the development of new roots is much slower than, for example, in pome fruit (pear, apple and quince).

Planting can be carried out only when the tree completely out of the growing season. In the autumn, the optimal time is from the end of September to the first week of November. However, this framework may vary depending on the climatic characteristics of the region.

Spring landing

Spring planting is considered more favorable for a tree of any type.

Benefits of landing in the spring:

  1. In the springtime, you can fully observe the development of the plant. In addition, the likelihood that a tree can freeze is reduced to a minimum.
  2. During planting in the spring, there is quite a lot of free time in order to make a full preparation of both the soil and the seedling itself.

The disadvantages of landing in the spring include the following:

  • small selection of seedlings at this time,
  • If in the summer a small amount of rain falls, water the seedlings must be daily.

Stages of work

Regardless of whether a tree is planted with bare roots or with a clod of earth, it is important to remember that in the process the root system will be reduced by almost 95% of its original size.

As a result, her injuries and the so-called root shockwhich can later make itself felt slow growth of the tree.

Properly conducted training will not only reduce the shock during transplantation, but also reduce its period.

  1. The first thing you need to properly dig a hole for planting - it is recommended to make wide sizes, it should be no less than three times more than the total volume of the root system. When digging, you should also not forget that the depth of the pit should not exceed the length of the seedlings. The implementation of digging the soil around the trunk, allows young roots to grow faster in the loosened soil, which, in turn, leads to their better growth.
  2. The next step should be to determine where the root neck is located, in other words, the basal thickening of the trunk - basically the root neck is where the trunk is thickened, and the first lateral roots begin to branch out. If it was not possible to locate the root collar before planting, it is necessary to remove part of the soil from the top after planting.
  3. Placing in the pit at the correct height - before placing it is always worth checking the correctness of the trim of the pit. Most of the roots in the planted tree will develop in a layer of the upper type. If the plant is planted too deeply, the roots will have some difficulties in development, which will undoubtedly be reflected in the development of the tree as a whole. It is best to plant a tree no higher than 6-9 centimeters from the initial level.
  4. Alignment in the pit - before starting the backfilling you should definitely revise the tree from several directions, this is necessary in order to make sure that the tree is located correctly. This should be done before the pit falls asleep, since then such manipulation can cause some difficulties.

Filling the pit and taking care of the seedling after planting

This procedure should be carried out in several stages:

  • First of all, it is necessary to fill the pit with soil by a third and apply one third of the compost or organic fertilizer.
  • When falling asleep, it is important to ensure that there are no air cavities in the pit. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to fill the pit partially and at the same time periodically press the ground with a shovel or hand.
  • In the process of pressing it is not necessary to press too hard, as this may cause deformation of the root system.
  • If there is a need it is worth using compost fertilizer. This should be done in the case when the soil contains clay and sand.
  • You should not give preference to ready-made fertilizers, as they can overwhelm the plants, which can lead to their death in the future.

If there is a need, it is worth put special props, with which the tree will be more protected from wind or mechanical damage. As props, you can use two regular pegs that are the same thickness as the barrel.

The next step will be mulching wheel circle - a mulching material, maybe any organic component that is crushed to the desired fraction and laid out around the barrel. With the help of this material, not only moisture retention occurs, but also temperature leveling on the surface, as well as restraining the growth of herbaceous plants.

The final stage will be ensuring proper care after landing. First of all, it is necessary to maintain the soil in a wet, but by no means overmoistened condition.

Selection of the time of year for landing

There are two options that depend on climate. In cold climates with harsh or just cold winters, plums are planted in open ground in spring - in April before the beginning of the growing season. Otherwise, the seedling will take root poorly or not take root at all. In regions with mild winters, you can land not only in spring, but also in autumn - in this case it is important to have time before frosts. Therefore, with the planting it is better not to pull and have time to plant until mid-September, so that the young tree can take root.

Selection of the most favorable landing site

The question "Where to plant a plum in the country?" Asked every amateur gardener and every professional. After all, this fruit tree can grow everywhere, but it will bear fruit in full force only if the place meets the following requirements:

  • the soil is not acidic, loose, fertile, with groundwater deposition at a depth of at least 1.5 m,
  • solar place with protection from drafts and wind (ideal - south and south-west),
  • in winter, snow levels should not exceed 60 cm.

How to implement plum planting

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It is important to ensure that when fertilizer is applied through the soil, the latter is wet and loose. Only in this case, the effect will be maximum. During the fruiting period, it is advisable to feed 3 times a year before sap flow or flowering, when the fruits are poured and after picking the fruit.

And in the springtime - nitrogen fertilizers, and in the autumn (under the digging), containing phosphorus and potassium. If you prefer organic fertilizers, it is good to use a mullein infusion for plums in early summer.

Crown formation

No less important point is pruning. In the year of planting it is better to give up and move it to early spring, before the sap flow begins. If the spring failed to hold this event, it is better to wait until the next one. It is also necessary to prepare for pruning, namely, stock up with a sharp tool to be used with it, and garden pitch, which is used to process all the cuts made.

During the first pruning, from 5 to 10 skeletal branches are chosen, leaving the stem 45–50 cm high. These branches should be at an equal distance from each other and depart from the stem at an angle of about 45 °.

Further pruning is purely sanitary in nature. Be sure to remove damaged, frostbite, vertical and thickening crown branches. When a tree enters a fruiting period, pruning is needed to stimulate the growth of new fruit bearing branches. It can also be considered seasonally.

In the spring, at the end of March, pruning of broken, frostbitten branches is carried out, and also they form a crown (they support the selected skeletal branches). In addition to pruning, they make a procedure that will allow not only to form the correct crown, but also to speed up the process of the tree entering the fruiting phase. It is called the bending of the branches. Skeletal shoots are tied with twine and slightly pull them down from the trunk.

In the summer, as necessary, pruned branches that thicken the crown. As a rule, this is done at the end of June. Also in the summer it is good to get rid of the branches affected in the winter, the areas battered by frost are radically different from healthy tissues. The only thing that cannot be done is to cut off the center conductor.

In the fall, sanitary pruning is carried out after the foliage has fallen from the tree, and the center conductor can also be shortened if it has grown strongly. This pruning is carried out only in regions with mild and warm winters.

Where to get the bastard

It is believed that the biggest cash flows are attracted to the house only by a stolen plant. This "scientific" fact belongs to the category of superstition. And it works only for those people who are inclined to believe in it. As well as the fact that the stolen plant grows better.

You would think that if you secretly tear off a leaf somewhere and stick it in the sand, then in two days you will receive a whole tree. Nonsense. A flower will grow well only when it is properly looked after. And where a leaf or a process was taken is no longer so important.

The fat woman can be bought, beg for a gift, steal. The main thing is to love her and create suitable conditions.

Where to put the bastard

There is an opinion that the money tree should be dragged through the windows. Say, in the winter on one, in the summer - quite on the other. It is better not to touch the fat woman once again, otherwise she will give you a rain of leaves. Then it will be bald. Choose her one permanent place. It must have certain light and temperature conditions.

The money tree loves light, but can grow well in partial shade. The main condition - direct lighting should be only half a day. Better after lunch and until the evening. The other half of the day lighting should be scattered. If you do not have such a window, then put on any windowsill. And adjust the light by improvised means - curtains, cardboard. Just do not close the money tree completely. Just shield it from direct sunlight.

If a reddish border begins to appear on the leaves, then add the duration of direct illumination gradually. Only first you have to know, what if this is a feature of your plant variety? Now it is full of variegated forms.

Temperature. Despite the fact that the plant comes from Africa, it does not like high temperatures. At + 25 ° С leaves begin to wilt and shrink. At + 5 ° C, the money tree begins to attack rot and disease.

The most optimal temperature for keeping fat woman ranges from +15 to + 20 ° С. Just do not have drastic changes. If one mode is selected, then let it remain. It should be changed gradually, otherwise the leaves will fall again.

And yet, even though it is a tree, its external strength is deceptive. Break off a whole branch with careless movement easier than ever. So be careful.

Tip If the heat comes, and it is not possible to move the pot to a cooler room, then place additional containers with water next to it, spray the flower more often. So it will be easier for him to transfer the heat of the air.

What soil to plant

The money tree does not need supernatural soil mixture. It is perfect for shopping from a store, for example, for succulents or cacti. And you can collect it yourself. To do this, take garden soil, clean sand, peat and humus. There are no special proportions, approximately 1 part is obtained by eye. You can add a small handful of small stones, this will allow the earth to remain loose. In addition, the root system of the bastard will braid these stones. This will allow her to hold tight in a small pot when she becomes a real tree.

For plants required drainage. It can be coals from hardwood, small brick chips, gravel. Just do not use egg shells, as some sources suggest. She compressed and will not be confused. And the excess calcium is not needed for fatty women.

When to water the bastard

The fleshy leaves of the money tree are able to accumulate water and retain it. But this does not mean that the plant does not like to drink. Still not a cactus.

Pullocks are watered with clean water at room temperature. It is advisable to let it stand at least a day. If the water is spring or well, then there is no such need.

How many times to water? There are no exact recommendations, it all depends on the conditions of detention and the microclimate in the room. But to prevent the earthen clod drying out. It is better to slowly pour in liquid as soon as the top layer of the earth dries out at a depth of 2 cm.

At the same time it is necessary to avoid excessive watering. This can cause root rot.

What to feed

A money tree may well exist without additional dressings. But then why the hell is it for you if you do not want to care for him? Over time, the soil in the pot will still be exhausted and gradually the plant will wither. Or freeze in growth.

In order for a fat woman to please you with a lush crown and attract wealth, you also need to give something in return. For example, any fertilizer for succulents or cacti. They feed the plant from March to October. It will be enough once a month, on the second day after the next watering.

In winter, limit watering and do not feed the money tree at all.

Tip If you could not find a specialized fertilizer, then feel free to take any multicomponent mineral water for indoor plants. Just carefully read the dosage on the package and divide it into two. The fat woman will be glad and such care.

How to properly form a fathead

The formation of the money tree depends on what you need the final result. The general rules are:

  • a sharp sterile blade or knife cut off the top of the shoot, leaving the cutting
  • powdered slice crushed tablet activated charcoal
  • at least 3 sheets must remain on the shoot

These principles are suitable for both methods of plant formation. The following are specific methods.

Bush. For this nipping shoots begin at a very early age. Cut off the top of the central stem at the level of 4 leaves. Soon, the stepchildren will begin to appear from the lateral sinuses. They are also pinched, leaving 4 leaves. В дальнейшем, после окончательной формировки нужного размера куста, просто периодически осматривают денежное дерево и убирают лишние побеги.

Tree. Чтобы получить растение именно в форме дерева, сначала надо дать центральному стеблю вырасти на нужную высоту. Обычно это от 20 до 35 см. И уже только потом начинать формировку. Срезают макушку. Then first grow two side shoots from the sinuses of the upper leaves. They pinch over 6 sheets. Further formation takes place constantly throughout the life of the money tree. Each branch is cut above 6 or 7 leaf.

However, the tree may fail if you have an ampel variety of fatty. In this case, it is better to form it as a hanging plant. Suspend pots and give shoots calmly grow down. With proper care, it looks pretty impressive. In addition, hanging money tree is a rarity in our homes.

Tip Cut the leaves do not throw away. They can try to root. If you do not need a new plant, then use them for cosmetic or medicinal purposes. The value of a jerk is akin to the beneficial properties of aloe.

How often to transplant

The change of a money tree is often meant only the replacement of soil with a new one. This should be done no more than 1 time in 3 years. Because the plant does not like being touched at all. To increase the size of the pot is necessary only when it becomes apparent cramped. Characteristic features are stunted growth and strong protrusion of roots above the soil surface.

It is advisable during the transplant not to affect the roots themselves. The only exception is rot. In this case, you will have to cut all the damage to healthy tissue, then sprinkle them with pounded coal, chalk, or burn it with ordinary medical green paint.

It is recommended to use the transshipment method. That is, at a minimum, shake the ground from the roots, and only slightly pour fresh soil around the soil.

Diseases and pests of the money tree

The only sore that threatens sweat is rot. It occurs spontaneously under too cold conditions and excessive watering. Eliminate these factors and the plant will be powerful and healthy.

If, nevertheless, poured bastard was poured, then either urgently replace the soil in the pot, which is often undesirable. Or, place a thick packet of paper napkins or kitchen towels under the pot in the area of ​​the drainage holes. Excess fluid is absorbed and the money tree will be saved.

Missed and appeared rot? Help the fatty urgently! Cut the affected areas to a healthy tissue, rinse with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkle with activated charcoal.

With a large lesion area, you will have to cut healthy cuttings and grow the money tree again. Such a plant can not be saved.

Pests. There are no separate insects in the Russian microflora that are seduced by the dense leathery leaves of the plant. But with the summer content in the open field a sweetie can be chosen by aphid. Here are two options:

  1. Spray the plant with any insecticide of systemic action strictly according to the instructions.
  2. Remove the aphids by hand, gently washing the stems and leaves with a warm solution of potash or laundry soap.

Some useful tips

  1. Once a month, gently wipe the leaves of the money tree from dust. It loves it very much. You can gently wash them under a weak stream of warm shower. Just be sure to close the soil in a pot with thick polyethylene or wrap with cling film. Excess water can damage the roots.
  2. So that the money tree does not tip over under the weight of its own crown, choose a pot with a wide, stable bottom. Heavy stones or glass balls can be placed on the soil surface, just make sure that they do not touch the trunk.
  3. Be sure to disinfect the soil for planting or replanting. Purchased or home-made does not matter. But freezing in the freezer with further calcination in the oven will relieve you of many problems in the future. Additionally, you can shed the ground with a very hot solution of potassium permanganate. Only after that you can plant the money tree no earlier than in three days, otherwise you can burn the roots.

How to care for a money tree? As you can see, it is not so difficult. The most common conditions, simple watering and a little fertilizer. But how much good! And aesthetic - after all a tree, and practical - well-being will grow. Love your flowers, they will thank you for it!

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